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The story

The Chapters

Mediaș was not simply a town with vineyards. It was a town that thought its budget in wine, placed its depots beside the railway and gave a whole region the name Weinland.…

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Mediaș was not simply a town with vineyards. It was a town that thought its budget in wine, placed its depots beside the railway and gave a whole region the name Weinland. This page reads the context in which the Ambrosi family appeared.

The land of wine

Mediaș sits in the middle of the region the Saxons called Weinland — the land of wine. The name is older than the wine industry: it appears on the map of Transylvania published by Johannes Honterus at Basel in 1532. Specialists speak of eight centuries of vine growing in the Carpathian arc; for Mediaș that means the vine was never a fashion.

In 1865 Charles Boner, an English traveller in Transylvania, described the first good Transylvanian wine as something that astonished him by the fullness of its flavour, its peculiar freshness and the fire lurking in that “liquid gold”. At an exhibition, Baron Liebig is said to have told him that Transylvanian wines were of rare excellence and that the gold medal had gone to a wine from Mediaș. These are period testimonies, not slogans.

“Wine metropolis” is not a modern hyperbole. It describes an economy in which wine organised the town: the vineyards around it, the cellars beneath the houses, the merchants, the scales, the road to the station. When phylloxera arrived, it attacked not only a crop but the economic foundation of a town.

The barrel that set the prices

Between 1501 and 1858 Mediaș used wine as its unit of reference. Each year the town set the reference price of the measure of wine — 11.32 litres — and every other price and tax was calculated from it. It was not a symbol; it was accounting.

A town that ties its currency to wine ties its fate to the harvest. Hard winters, pests, transport and the quality of the must entered the municipal budget directly. Hence the habit of recording: registers, seals, scales. The town's seals show a hand holding a vine with three bunches — an image that reached the logo of Mediaș centuries later.

The system ended in 1858, but the reflex remained. When, at the end of the century, growers needed a commission and a school, they already had an administrative language for wine. The registers remain the best proof that wine was not only a drink but a unit of measure for everything sold and taxed in the town. Ambrosi did not invent the relationship between Mediaș and wine; he found it already written in the registers.

Phylloxera

Phylloxera appeared in France in 1863. It is attested in the Târnava region in 1889, having already passed through the Hungarian vineyards. Transylvania then had about 10,650 ha under vines, of which 6,760 ha in the Târnava zone and between 920 and 1,520 ha in the other three wine zones. The figures belong to a region, not to a single estate.

The damage was not only economic. In the 1890s phylloxera and downy mildew worked together and destroyed, in practice, all the vineyards of the Kokel and Mureș regions, where “our noblest wines” grew — the phrase is from a report of 1909. The old vineyards, with roots close to the surface and irregular planting, could not be treated.

The answer was not to restore the old vineyard but to replace it. American rootstock, grafting, a vine school: the technique changed not only the plant but the trade. Phylloxera is, paradoxically, the moment when Transylvanian viticulture became modern — and the moment when a family of growers entered history.

The school of vines

In 1871 Mediaș had the first agricultural school in Transylvania. It is a detail that explains much: the town taught agriculture before it taught wine, and the nursery was understood as a school, not merely as a factory for rootstocks.

Michael Ambrosi jun. passed through the agricultural school at Mediaș between 1894 and 1897, then the dairy school at Sárvár and the viticulture academy at Budafok. He returned as a teacher at the agricultural apprenticeship school in Mediaș. At Buftea, in the grafting season, 800–1000 people worked, most of them local; the staff had been trained at Aiud. A nursery that trains a thousand people is, functionally, a school.

Knowledge travelled with the goods. Catalogues contained not only prices but instructions; the nursery's 1936 brochure explains the viticulture law and how to plant. A buyer of grafted vines bought a method together with the plant. That is the sense in which Ambrosi was a school of vines: it did not only sell rootstocks, it sold a way of working.

The metropolis today

Today the “wine metropolis” can be read in a few places: in the depots near the station, in the cellars beneath the town, in the labels that survive and in the archive's 55 documents. And, of course, in the vineyard: Fetească Regală, the variety named here, covers some 12,661 ha in Romania.

Not everything that was a metropolis has remained spectacular. Some buildings have other uses, some land is working land, and the archive is more complete than the buildings. That is why the site does not promise a finished tourist trail; it promises a documented reading of the places that exist. What is being restored here is not a set but an economy.

An honest question remains: what does it mean to be a wine metropolis in a provincial town, after phylloxera, after nationalisation and after emigration? The answer is not a tourist panel. It is a network of people who care for the place — Core of Transylvania, Metropola de Vin, TouristCard.eu — and an archive that can be researched.

The people

Those who carried the name

  • 1862–1933

    Michael Ambrosi sen.

    President of the Viticultural Commission, nurseryman, author of leaflets on grafting

    Michael Ambrosi sen. (1862–1933) came from an old family of cultivators in the Târnava country. In 1875, on his father's death, he left school at thirteen and took over the family's vineyards, fields and pastures; from then on he learned the trade in the vineyard. When phylloxera reached the region in 1889 he submitted a memorandum to the council of the Saxon Agricultural Association and called for a viticultural commission; the commission was created and he was appointed its president. From 1892 he worked for ten years with Friedrich Caspari, running courses and practical sessions, and from 1901 he represented the Saxon growers on the council of the Association. He held 20 ha at Mediaș, with vines and American hybrid rootstocks, and 70 ha at Crăciunel, land that after nationalisation became the basis of the research station at Blaj. He wrote leaflets on grafting, among them «Un nou proces de altoire» (1910, revised in 1928).

    Portrait
  • 1880–1940

    Michael Ambrosi jun.

    Nurseryman, director at Aiud and Buftea, author of «Der praktische Weinbauer», mayor of Mediaș

    Michael Ambrosi jun. (1880–1940) attended the Agricultural School in Mediaș (1894–1897), the dairy school at Sárvár (1897–1898) and the viticultural academy at Budafok, where he graduated in 1903. In 1902 he took the initiative to buy the property at Aiud, named «Ambrosi, Fischer & Co.» in 1905 and managed by him from 1912; in 1906 he published «Der praktische Weinbauer», which went through three editions and a Romanian version at Craiova in 1913. From 1907 he was partner and director of Prince Știrbey's nurseries at Buftea, with 40 ha of rootstock vines, 12 ha of grafted-vine school and 8–10 million vines a year. In 1919 he took over the Gräfenberg vineyards, in 1924 he moved to Mediaș, and in the 1920s he made the clonal selections from which the name Fetească Regală probably derives. He was mayor of Mediaș from 1933.

    Portrait
  • 1895–1974

    Dr. Alfred Ambrosi

    Lawyer, winegrower, curator of the Evangelical Church in Mediaș

    Dr. Alfred Ambrosi (1895–1974) completed the Stephan Ludwig Roth high school and then went to the front as an artilleryman in the First World War. After being wounded and gassed he read law at Cluj-Napoca and took his doctorate in 1921; he then deepened his knowledge of viticulture at the Agricultural University in Berlin and at the university of commerce. He worked for several years for Hugo Stinnes in Hamburg, then for the same employer in Romania. In 1927 he took over the estates at Crăciunel, where he farmed the vineyards by the most modern methods and became known for his range of wines and for his work in the cellar. The export of rootstocks brought him international recognition, especially through the «Ambrosi-special» selection and through papers at international viticultural congresses. In 1942 he became curator of the Evangelical Church in Mediaș, until his emigration to Germany. He died in Munich in 1974; his advertisements for Transylvanian wine appeared in the German press in 1967, 1971 and 1972.

    Portrait
  • 1925–2012

    Hans Ambrosi

    Director of the Hesse state vineyards — Kloster Eberbach; wine writer

    Hans Ambrosi (1925–2012) took his baccalaureate at the Brukenthal high school in Sibiu in 1942, immediately before being called up and sent to the Russian front. After the war he left for Germany for good in 1947 and studied agronomy at Stuttgart-Hohenheim between 1948 and 1951, taking his doctorate two years later. He worked at the research institute for grafted vines at Geisenheim, then as a research assistant at the pomology institute at Stuttgart-Hohenheim. In 1954 he went to South Africa, where he headed the viticulture section of Stellenbosch University and laid the foundations of the Nietvoorbij institute. From 1966 he was director of the Hesse state vineyards at Kloster Eberbach, where he restored the monastery and initiated the Rheingau Music Festival. He retired in 1990 and published more than sixty books; in 2001 he received the Cultural Prize of the Transylvanian Saxons.

    Portrait
  • 1858–1935

    Friedrich Caspari

    Pioneer of replanting, collaborator of the Ambrosi family, state commissioner for phylloxera

    Friedrich Caspari (1858–1935) is the other pioneer of Europe's replanting with grafted vines, alongside Michael Ambrosi sen. He trained at the viticultural school near Vienna — Klosterneuburg — and returned to Transylvania in 1892, when he was appointed state commissioner for the fight against phylloxera. In the same year he began his collaboration with Michael Ambrosi sen., with numerous courses and practical sessions held together for ten years. The family brochure describes a division of spheres of influence: Caspari worked mainly to the west — Transylvania, Hungary, Austria, Germany, Liechtenstein, Russia — and a little in Wallachia, where he was director of Prince Știrbey's nurseries at Drăgășani, with a nursery at Joita near Bucharest. Ambrosi worked to the east and south, and later across the ocean. The life dates used here do not appear in the family brochure.

    Portrait
  • The Ambrosi archive

    Barbu Știrbey

    Prince, owner of the nurseries at Drăgășani and Buftea

    Barbu Știrbey appears in the Ambrosi family's sources as a prince and the owner of the nurseries at Drăgășani and Buftea. For him Michael Ambrosi jun. planted a ten-hectare orchard at Buftea in 1904, which reached 50 ha by 1909, and looked after 30 ha of apricots and plums; from 1907 he was partner and director of the princely nurseries. Buftea also had 40 ha of rootstock vineyard and 12 ha of grafted-vine school, with an irrigation system supplying roughly three million litres a day, and its workers were trained at Aiud.

    Portrait
  • The Ambrosi archive

    Josef Fischer

    Partner in the firm «Ambrosi, Fischer & Co.» at Aiud

    About Josef Fischer the sources of this dossier preserve almost nothing: no date, no portrait, no letter. His name survives in the firm «Ambrosi, Fischer & Co.» at Aiud, Alba county, whose autumn 1936 catalogue — printed at Aiud in September — mentions him only in the letterhead, beside the telegraphic address «Ambrosi-Fischer Aiud», telephone no. 22 and CEC account no. 43.026. The firm presents itself as a member of the General Association of Romanian Nurserymen and notes that it has existed «for over 35 years», which places its beginnings before 1901. The 1936–1937 catalogue lists fruit trees, roses, American rootstocks and grafted vines, among them Fetească Regală. That is all: a firm's name, a nursery and a catalogue.

    Portrait
Pitz