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The story

Replanting Europe

The technical dossier of the replanting: a ten-page article from 1909, read closely, and the figures that show how an entire vineyard region was replaced — not with enthusiasm, but with soil,…

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The technical dossier of the replanting: a ten-page article from 1909, read closely, and the figures that show how an entire vineyard region was replaced — not with enthusiasm, but with soil, lime and temperature.

Phylloxera

Phylloxera did not arrive in Transylvania as a scientific surprise. It had appeared in Hungary in 1874, at Pancsova, and by 1889 it was attested in the Târnava region. In the meantime growers had tried everything: forced uprooting of diseased vineyards, carbon disulphide treatments, intensive cultivation of the vines.

The 1909 article shows why none of it worked. Carbon disulphide was injected into the soil at 24–28 g/m² and worked only if the vine was still strong; the “cultural method” gave results only on light, dry soils. In Transylvania the old vineyards had roots close to the surface and were planted irregularly — impossible to treat uniformly. The treatments required an ordered vineyard, and the old vineyards were not ordered.

By the late 1890s phylloxera and downy mildew had destroyed, in practice, all the vineyards of the Kokel and Mureș regions. The answer that remained was not to save the diseased vine but to replace it: American rootstock, European scion. A survival technique that became, within two decades, an industry.

The viticulture commission

In 1889 Michael Ambrosi sen. submitted to the council of the Saxon Agricultural Association a memorandum calling for a Viticulture Commission. He did not ask for money, he asked for coordination: who inspects the outbreaks, who orders uprooting, who instructs the growers. The commission was founded, and he became its president.

From 1892 Friedrich Caspari — returned from Klosterneuburg and appointed state commissioner for combating phylloxera — worked alongside him for ten years. Together they held courses and rural sessions in the villages, explained grafting and legitimised it before growers who looked at the American vine with suspicion. The change was not only technical; it was a change in trust.

The result of that period can be seen in two places. The first is in the vineyards: replanted land, vine schools, nurseries. The second is on paper: Michael Ambrosi jun.'s 1909 article is the technical report of the generation that moved from panic to method. The commission did not enter the manuals; it entered the vineyard.

The graft

Choosing a rootstock was not a matter of preference but of soil. Riparia portalis suited fertile, deep soils, neither wet nor too dry, and tolerated no more than 12% calcium carbonate; Rupestris monticola was for light, dry soils in high, warm positions, with a tolerance of up to 30%; Solonis was for deep, wet soils with up to 25% lime, but it did not fully resist phylloxera. The new Berlandieri × Riparia 157 tolerated over 50% lime.

To know which rootstock to choose, the nursery used a Bernard calcimeter — a simple instrument that measured the lime in the soil from the amount of carbon dioxide released. Then came preparation: deep ripping to 60–80 cm, done with mattock and spade, not with explosives as in some parts of Hungary. Planting was at least 120 cm apart.

Grafting had two routes. In the vineyard, the American rootstock was planted and grown for two years, and in the third year, in May, the shoots were green-grafted by simple copulation at 60–80 cm. In the nursery, wooden grafting — English copulation — was followed by “Moosveredlung”: the grafts were laid in moss-lined boxes at 20–24 °C and high humidity, where callus formed in about three weeks. The method made the difference between a trade and an industry.

The nurseries

In 1909 the article spoke of two large nurseries in Transylvania, producing millions of grafts a year and employing together 800–1000 people at the peak of the season. They were not rootstock gardens; they were enterprises with a season, a hierarchy and deliveries on time.

At Buftea, where Michael Ambrosi jun. was associate and director from 1907, the scale is visible in figures: 40 ha of rootstock vineyard, 12 ha of grafted-vine school, 30 ha of apricots and plums, an orchard grown from 10 ha in 1904 to 50 ha in 1909. Irrigation supplied about 3 million litres a day. Eight to ten million rootstocks were produced each year, sold at home or exported to the Baltic countries.

The labour was local and trained at Aiud: in spring, at grafting, at deliveries and at the tree school, 800–1000 people worked daily. Such a concentration of people in a rural economy is hard to imagine today; for the period it meant that the rhythm of the villages moved, in spring, into the nursery. Hence the name “school of vines”: people learned a trade that was exported.

The export

Grafted vines do not sell themselves. They need a catalogue, a price list, a way of paying and a railway wagon. Ambrosi built all four. The 1936 catalogue of the nursery — “Ambrosi, Fischer & Co.”, Aiud — is not a simple list: it carries conditions of sale, guarantees of varietal authenticity, complaint deadlines and a CEC account.

Transport explained the geography. The depots at Mediaș stood beside the railway, and orders left by train: within the monarchy, to the Kingdom of Romania and to the Baltic countries. Later the family would reach South Africa too — Hans Ambrosi led the viticulture department at Stellenbosch between 1954 and 1964 — but that is another branch of the story.

The details in the catalogue show a modern business: payment in advance, the rest by cash on delivery, packing and loading into the wagon charged at 5–10% of the invoice, complaints accepted within eight days. Prices were in lei, and buyers could ask for information on the telephone at Aiud 22. A catalogue is, in the end, a photograph of a market: who buys, what they pay and what they are promised.

The 1909 article

The document behind this page is a ten-page article: “Die Weingartenerneuerung in Siebenbürgen”, signed Michael Ambrosi jun., Nagyenyed (Aiud), printed in 1909 on pages 39–48 of the journal. It is not a memoir; it is a technical report, with soils, figures and methods.

Ambrosi writes as a man who saw failure at close range. He begins with useless uprooting and carbon disulphide, continues with rootstocks, the calcimeter, deep ripping, grafting and the vine school, and ends with varieties and yields. The tone is dry, but it contains a sentence that gives the stakes away: after fifteen years of experience, it can be said that the future belongs to grafting.

The last page is the hardest. Phylloxera, he writes, ravaged the vineyards so badly that many growers were forced to take up their staff and try their luck beyond the ocean. The article does not hide the loss; it names it. That is precisely why it is a document of the replanting, not a brochure for it.

The people

Those who carried the name

  • 1862–1933

    Michael Ambrosi sen.

    President of the Viticultural Commission, nurseryman, author of leaflets on grafting

    Michael Ambrosi sen. (1862–1933) came from an old family of cultivators in the Târnava country. In 1875, on his father's death, he left school at thirteen and took over the family's vineyards, fields and pastures; from then on he learned the trade in the vineyard. When phylloxera reached the region in 1889 he submitted a memorandum to the council of the Saxon Agricultural Association and called for a viticultural commission; the commission was created and he was appointed its president. From 1892 he worked for ten years with Friedrich Caspari, running courses and practical sessions, and from 1901 he represented the Saxon growers on the council of the Association. He held 20 ha at Mediaș, with vines and American hybrid rootstocks, and 70 ha at Crăciunel, land that after nationalisation became the basis of the research station at Blaj. He wrote leaflets on grafting, among them «Un nou proces de altoire» (1910, revised in 1928).

    Portrait
  • 1880–1940

    Michael Ambrosi jun.

    Nurseryman, director at Aiud and Buftea, author of «Der praktische Weinbauer», mayor of Mediaș

    Michael Ambrosi jun. (1880–1940) attended the Agricultural School in Mediaș (1894–1897), the dairy school at Sárvár (1897–1898) and the viticultural academy at Budafok, where he graduated in 1903. In 1902 he took the initiative to buy the property at Aiud, named «Ambrosi, Fischer & Co.» in 1905 and managed by him from 1912; in 1906 he published «Der praktische Weinbauer», which went through three editions and a Romanian version at Craiova in 1913. From 1907 he was partner and director of Prince Știrbey's nurseries at Buftea, with 40 ha of rootstock vines, 12 ha of grafted-vine school and 8–10 million vines a year. In 1919 he took over the Gräfenberg vineyards, in 1924 he moved to Mediaș, and in the 1920s he made the clonal selections from which the name Fetească Regală probably derives. He was mayor of Mediaș from 1933.

    Portrait
  • 1895–1974

    Dr. Alfred Ambrosi

    Lawyer, winegrower, curator of the Evangelical Church in Mediaș

    Dr. Alfred Ambrosi (1895–1974) completed the Stephan Ludwig Roth high school and then went to the front as an artilleryman in the First World War. After being wounded and gassed he read law at Cluj-Napoca and took his doctorate in 1921; he then deepened his knowledge of viticulture at the Agricultural University in Berlin and at the university of commerce. He worked for several years for Hugo Stinnes in Hamburg, then for the same employer in Romania. In 1927 he took over the estates at Crăciunel, where he farmed the vineyards by the most modern methods and became known for his range of wines and for his work in the cellar. The export of rootstocks brought him international recognition, especially through the «Ambrosi-special» selection and through papers at international viticultural congresses. In 1942 he became curator of the Evangelical Church in Mediaș, until his emigration to Germany. He died in Munich in 1974; his advertisements for Transylvanian wine appeared in the German press in 1967, 1971 and 1972.

    Portrait
  • 1925–2012

    Hans Ambrosi

    Director of the Hesse state vineyards — Kloster Eberbach; wine writer

    Hans Ambrosi (1925–2012) took his baccalaureate at the Brukenthal high school in Sibiu in 1942, immediately before being called up and sent to the Russian front. After the war he left for Germany for good in 1947 and studied agronomy at Stuttgart-Hohenheim between 1948 and 1951, taking his doctorate two years later. He worked at the research institute for grafted vines at Geisenheim, then as a research assistant at the pomology institute at Stuttgart-Hohenheim. In 1954 he went to South Africa, where he headed the viticulture section of Stellenbosch University and laid the foundations of the Nietvoorbij institute. From 1966 he was director of the Hesse state vineyards at Kloster Eberbach, where he restored the monastery and initiated the Rheingau Music Festival. He retired in 1990 and published more than sixty books; in 2001 he received the Cultural Prize of the Transylvanian Saxons.

    Portrait
  • 1858–1935

    Friedrich Caspari

    Pioneer of replanting, collaborator of the Ambrosi family, state commissioner for phylloxera

    Friedrich Caspari (1858–1935) is the other pioneer of Europe's replanting with grafted vines, alongside Michael Ambrosi sen. He trained at the viticultural school near Vienna — Klosterneuburg — and returned to Transylvania in 1892, when he was appointed state commissioner for the fight against phylloxera. In the same year he began his collaboration with Michael Ambrosi sen., with numerous courses and practical sessions held together for ten years. The family brochure describes a division of spheres of influence: Caspari worked mainly to the west — Transylvania, Hungary, Austria, Germany, Liechtenstein, Russia — and a little in Wallachia, where he was director of Prince Știrbey's nurseries at Drăgășani, with a nursery at Joita near Bucharest. Ambrosi worked to the east and south, and later across the ocean. The life dates used here do not appear in the family brochure.

    Portrait
  • The Ambrosi archive

    Barbu Știrbey

    Prince, owner of the nurseries at Drăgășani and Buftea

    Barbu Știrbey appears in the Ambrosi family's sources as a prince and the owner of the nurseries at Drăgășani and Buftea. For him Michael Ambrosi jun. planted a ten-hectare orchard at Buftea in 1904, which reached 50 ha by 1909, and looked after 30 ha of apricots and plums; from 1907 he was partner and director of the princely nurseries. Buftea also had 40 ha of rootstock vineyard and 12 ha of grafted-vine school, with an irrigation system supplying roughly three million litres a day, and its workers were trained at Aiud.

    Portrait
  • The Ambrosi archive

    Josef Fischer

    Partner in the firm «Ambrosi, Fischer & Co.» at Aiud

    About Josef Fischer the sources of this dossier preserve almost nothing: no date, no portrait, no letter. His name survives in the firm «Ambrosi, Fischer & Co.» at Aiud, Alba county, whose autumn 1936 catalogue — printed at Aiud in September — mentions him only in the letterhead, beside the telegraphic address «Ambrosi-Fischer Aiud», telephone no. 22 and CEC account no. 43.026. The firm presents itself as a member of the General Association of Romanian Nurserymen and notes that it has existed «for over 35 years», which places its beginnings before 1901. The 1936–1937 catalogue lists fruit trees, roses, American rootstocks and grafted vines, among them Fetească Regală. That is all: a firm's name, a nursery and a catalogue.

    Portrait
Pitz